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Ridiculous?  

Well, 20 years ago you wouldn’t have dreamt of paying £1.50 for a bottle of water.

In the Observer Food Monthly, free with The Observer tomorrow, William Leith looks at the current craze in designer water – the tasteless drink we spend nearly £2 million on every day.

Also in OFM, we meet Conrad Gallagher, the Irish chef who cooked for his Mafia inmates in prison – we get the inside story.